Inside Turkey’s Olive Oil Revival

In a beautifully restored olive oil mill in Urla—on Turkey’s Aegean coast, west of Ephesus and its now-crowded ancient streets—oleologist Pelin Omuroğlu swirls a golden-green liquid in a blue, tulip-shaped glass, its color concealed, its character revealed through scent and texture alone. “Smell first,” Omuroğlu instructs. “Then slurp—pull in air through your mouth and take…

Alaska Salmon Have Five Names, And They All Taste Great

On a beautiful late summer day, Alaskan Dee Buchanon has just hauled an eight-pound salmon from a side channel on the Susitna River. The majestic fish is a perfect example of everything salmon represents in Alaska culture. It is an Expressionist masterpiece: vermilion flanks, ivory belly, platinum fins and cheeks. Close to a billion wild salmon roam the North Pacific waters bordering Alaska. Hundreds of millions of them return to the state’s rivers, streams and lakes each summer and fall to spawn. Sustaining fisheries is part of the Alaska Constitution, and the state does a good job.

Koh Tuch beach, Koh Rong

PARADISE LOST? CHINA ALTERS CAMBODIA’S COASTAL VIBE

The Cambodian coastline is only 275 miles long, extending from the mangrove marshes of Koh Kong to the seaside community of Kep, famous for its crab market. At the heart of the Cambodian coast is Sihanoukville, the country’s second largest city and the primary hub for coastal tourism. Twenty years ago, Sihanoukville was a sleepy beach town with less than 90,000 residents. Then the Chinese arrived and began investing over $1 billion annually in property development. Today, the city has more than 60 massive casino hotels along with a hundred smaller gambling venues and Mandarin is replacing Khmer and English on street signs. Investment that was supposed to usher Khmers into the middle class has seen most of the good jobs go to Chinese. Indeed, 90% of the city’s expatriate community is Chinese.