Wolf Fish

Up the Essequibo River Deep In Guyana’s Iwokrama Rainforest, a Wolf Fish is Waiting for You

The bifurcating channels of the Essequibo River that wind through Guyana’s Iwokrama rainforest are nature’s highways into the deepest, densest and most remote part of the jungle. Macushi Amerindian Mark Andries navigates this complex matrix of waterways searching for Hoplias aimara, more commonly referred to as the wolf fish. For Guyana’s indigenous people, the wolf fish is akin to caviar. For visiting anglers seeking Andries’ guidance, catching the ferocious freshwater predator is a bucket-list experience. Read More


Is a Galapagos cruise for you?

We’re standing in the equatorial sun on Fernandina Island’s Punta Espinosa, staring at a mostly inert pile of marine iguanas. Occasionally, one shifts position atop another or excretes a hearty burst of concentrated salt from its nasal gland.

Our guide tells us all about their algae-eating habits. He’s been studying animal behavior and leading groups in the Galapagos for twenty years. “When they are not diving under the water, as a way to keep a balance in their diet, you might see iguanas feeding on sea lion poop or other iguana poop,” he confides. “Sea lion poop is a very important part of the iguana diet. Since sea lions eat a lot of fish, it’s a very good source of calcium carbonate.”

For lizard lovers like me, going on a cruise in the Galapagos is a dream trip. Those expecting the Love Boat may be in for a disappointment, however. Instead of intimate interludes at the bar with exotic strangers, prepare for lectures on sea lion poop. Truthfully, this famous bucket list trip is not for everybody. Read More