SAVING PHNOM PENH’S COLONIAL HISTORY

Although Phnom Penh dates its origin from the 14th century, it wasn’t until 1863 that the city began to take its modern form. That was when Cambodia became a French protectorate, following King Norodom’s request for assistance in deflecting the armies of Thailand and Vietnam. In 1866, Norodom moved his capital from rural Oudong to the confluence of the Mekong, Tonlé Sap and Bassac rivers. Four years later, he built a Royal Palace in the iconic style of the Khmer Empire. Its spires still soar skyward, its sacred elements reflecting Hindu and Buddhist mythology. Few organized tours in contemporary Phnom Penh consider the colonial architectural heritage. This is a shame. It can easily be explored in a stroll of only about 10 minutes from Wat Phnom, the medieval pagoda that is, in its essence, the center of the city.

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Cappadocia’s Underground Cities Saved Christianity

Today’s visitors to Turkiye’s Cappadocia come for two reasons – spectacular sunrise ascents over the rugged terrain in hot air balloons and stooped-over descents into underground retreats that protected residents from ancient predators traveling through the Tarsus Mountains. These hand-dug hideouts were elaborately engineered, multi-layered warrens of tunnels and rooms, some of which descended more than 275 feet into the earth. Among the people who hunkered down in them were early Christians determined to spread their faith across Asia Minor. The existential threats in the early centuries following Jesus’ resurrection came not only from Roman governors and Jewish Pharisees but also from Silk Road highway men passing through Cappadocia. Disputes could be doctrinal, territorial, or simply monetary. Regardless, the early Christians were not the first to seek underground shelter here.

Koh Tuch beach, Koh Rong

PARADISE LOST? CHINA ALTERS CAMBODIA’S COASTAL VIBE

The Cambodian coastline is only 275 miles long, extending from the mangrove marshes of Koh Kong to the seaside community of Kep, famous for its crab market. At the heart of the Cambodian coast is Sihanoukville, the country’s second largest city and the primary hub for coastal tourism. Twenty years ago, Sihanoukville was a sleepy beach town with less than 90,000 residents. Then the Chinese arrived and began investing over $1 billion annually in property development. Today, the city has more than 60 massive casino hotels along with a hundred smaller gambling venues and Mandarin is replacing Khmer and English on street signs. Investment that was supposed to usher Khmers into the middle class has seen most of the good jobs go to Chinese. Indeed, 90% of the city’s expatriate community is Chinese.

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Penang Festivals, Food, and Fun

By Nancy Wigston The view from our windows at Penang’s Eastern & Oriental Hotel stretches across the pale blue Strait of Malacca all the way to the horizon. It’s early morning and still tolerably cool. Yellow-beaked mynah birds squawk, coconut palms whisper in the gentle breeze and waves break rhythmically below the longest hotel sea…

cat in Gazientep

Sounds of Türkiye: Minarets and the Cats’ Meow

The eminent archeologist was explaining how the discoveries at Göbekli Tepe in southeastern Türkiye were changing the way people understood Neolithic history. But most of my attention was directed toward an affectionate tricolor tabby posing coquettishly in the foreground of the ruins. This is a common occurrence in Türkiye, where an estimated five to 10 million cats, ranging from domesticated to feral, roam urban boulevards, lavish resorts, trendy shopping centers and country lanes. In Istanbul, you’ll find street-dwelling felines lurking in and around structures that include Byzantine cathedrals, spice markets and Ottoman palaces.