Visitors in Santa Claus turn the town into a scavenger hunt, tracking down and posing with the more than 20 Santa statues sprinkled around the community.
Untouched by the glaciers that leveled the northern part of the state, Southern Indiana swells and ebbs against an unending sky, forested hills, and ancient farms. On its winding two-lane roads, it unfolds like a good story… slow turns, familiar scenes, a feeling that you’ve been here before, even if you haven’t.
Santa Claus, Indiana, sits in the middle of it all. A small town with about 2,600 residents, Santa Claus sits halfway between Evansville, Indiana, and Louisville, Kentucky, on Indiana Hwy 162, also known as Christmas Boulevard. Many residents work in the seasonal theme park, Holiday World and Splashin’ Safari, or commute to nearby Jasper, Huntingburg, or Owensboro.
It is worth noting that other towns in the U.S. have embraced a year-round Christmas village tradition. North Pole, Alaska, about 15 minutes south of Fairbanks, is home to candy-cane-lined streets and the Santa Claus House, which receives thousands of letters addressed to St. Nick year-round. Michigan’s “Little Bavaria,” city of Frankenmuth, is home to the self-proclaimed world’s largest Christmas shop, Bronner’s Christmas Wonderland. It is a dizzying 7.35 acres of Christmas consumerism.
Santa Claus, Indiana, is different. It’s not loud. It’s not trying to be anything it’s not. Except for a few year-round Christmas decorations, it could be any town down here. And while its name invites visions of merry mischief, its wonder isn’t a spectacle. Santa Claus’ magic lies in a rhythm etched by commitment and community.
Stamped in Tradition
Santa Claus greets customers buying stamps or mailing letters at the Santa Claus, Indiana post office. Photo by Steffy McCourt
The heart of Santa Claus resides in the town’s post office. Now, it’s not often that a post office makes it into a travel story. The world over, they’re really all about the same. Letters arrive; letters leave. Nothing to write home about. Announcements. Apologies. Grief. Bills. Gratitude.
In Santa Claus, like in every other place around the world, the post office receives and delivers mail. And here, they have done so every day, since 1856.
Built on Belief
There is one tiny thing, though, that sets this particular post office apart. The Santa Claus Post Office is the first and only post office in the world to bear the Santa Claus name. Which is why, right alongside tax forms and overdue notices, Dear Santa letters keep showing up.
At first, maybe the letters were opened. Perhaps they gave the postal workers a laugh. On busier days, maybe they were tossed aside, forgotten. Then, in 1914, the town’s postmaster, James Martin, did what no one else before him had. Martin picked up a pen and gave Santa a voice. By writing back, he started a tradition that turned into a town’s legacy.
During his tenure, James Martin became lovingly known as the “Santa Claus Postmaster.” He served until 1935, sometimes donning a red velvet suit. Pictures of Martin, along with many of the Dear Santa letters he received, are lovingly displayed in the Santa Claus Museum, just like little Gloria’s letter from Diller, Nebraska
Dear Santa Claus,
How are you? Is it cold at the north pole? Does the wind blow through your whiskers? I am a little girl seven years old. I would like to have a blue tricycle for Christmas and also a Shirley Temple book and a doll with rubber pants. I hope my doll can say mama. I wish it could open and shut its eyes. Don’t forget the little poor children. They need a merry Christmas too. With much love and kiss to the jolliest fellow in the world. I am lovingly yours.
Gloria Joyce Miller
(Nov 22, 1935)
After Martin’s final season, the letters continued to stream in, and the town took over answering them. It’s a commitment that today’s postmaster, Joshua Graham, takes very seriously.
Joshua Graham works behind the scenes in the Santa Claus post office, keeping the daily mail moving. Photo by Steffy McCourt
“Along with a strong sense of community, during the season itself, there is a lot more magic here than elsewhere,” Graham insists. “There’s Christmas spirit and the Christmas magic everywhere, but here (in Santa Claus) it’s even more impactful. It’s certainly more noticeable,” he winks. I think because the community really embraces the identity of being Santa Claus.”
Where the Letters Live
The Santa Claus Museum and Village consists of three buildings: the museum (home to all the Dear Santa letters), the 1880 Church (perpetually adorned for Christmas) , and the Original Post Office.
At the old Post Office, children of all ages are invited to sit down and write a letter to Santa. No need for postage. They can drop their letter right into a letterbox for same-day elf retrieval.
It’s a whimsical stop that children near and far make a pilgrimage to each December. But the Post Office is also home to a secret.
Within the old brick Post Office building lurks a legion of well-hidden elves who have taken over the work of James Martin. Just like Martin once did, they write back. But don’t even think about sneaking into their secret workshop, unless you happen to know an elf. Lucky for you, dear reader, I do.
A Visit With the Chief Elf
Pat Koch is a sprightly 94-year-old woman with a shock of white hair that matches the twinkle in her eye. She is the official Chief Elf of Santa Claus, Indiana, and the founder of The Santa Claus Museum and Village.
As Chief Elf, she recruits, hires, and trains the volunteer corps of elves who write back. She oversees it all with the equanimity of someone who has seen every kind of Christmas calamity.
Pat Koch in the elves’ secret headquarters inside the Santa Claus Postal Museum. It is a small space that keeps a big tradition running. Photo by Steffy McCourt
“I’m very particular, because I think we should be uniform. Even about what kind of cookies Santa likes. Because what if a child in the neighborhood gets a letter from somebody who says, “sugar cookies’ and somebody else says, ‘peanut butter cookies?’ Santa likes chocolate chip! And everybody here knows to say exactly that,” Koch explains.
Koch came by her title honestly. Her father, Jim Yellig, was the first official Santa Claus of Santa Claus, Indiana. A good friend and helper to Postmaster Martin, her dad, taught Koch everything he knew about the town and what it means to pen a letter in Santa’s name.
Koch vividly describes growing up as Santa’s daughter in her memoir, Santa’s Daughter. “(The letters) were everywhere. There were thousands and thousands of them — they filled the back seat of my dad’s car, filled boxes in our house, and were stacked in big piles on our dining room table.”
The letters still arrive constantly throughout the year. Surprisingly, they really start to pour in over the summer months. Koch gathers her elves together for their first group letter-writing session in August or September.
“I look forward to it for several reasons,” she smiles, “because I know we are making children happy. We hear about children today being on their phones all the time, or being isolated, and maybe parents not listening. But we can make a child happy or happier, by bringing them a little joy.”
You Better Watch Out
Koch’s elves sprinkle the town like snowflakes. They are everywhere, even in places you might not suspect.
One afternoon, I ducked into S&S Barbeque and Pizzeria for a quick bite. I got to talking with the owner, Beth Schnell, who after some encouragement, described how she managed to create the community’s only Grinch-themed restaurant. Like a diplomat, she made sure to connect with town leaders to ensure the Grinch would be welcomed. With the exception of Koch, who warned people might think she was a bit of a grump, everyone enthusiastically embraced the Grinch.
Beth Schnell and her husband pose beside the Grinch inside their restaurant, S&S Barbeque & Pizzeria. The Grinch owes his popularity to the quality of the 16-inch pizza that bears his name. Photo by Steffy McCourt
S&S’s Grinch Pizza quickly became a town staple. This magnificent 16-inch pizza is piled with 1 pound of pulled pork, sweet Thai chili sauce, onions, green peppers, and cheese. Somewhere in between describing the menu and greeting diners, Schnell shyly revealed herself as being one of Koch’s elves. With humble awe, she whispered, “We get letters from all over the world, and we mail out thousands and thousands of letters, too.”
As the owner of a Grinch-themed restaurant, Schnell was very nervous about any of this elf business ending up in print where children might see it. “The magic of Christmas is sacred here.” She confided. “Maintaining Santa’s image is a responsibility the entire town shares. The elves don’t just answer letters; they keep something gentle alive.”
Where Elves Live
The majority of Santa Claus citizens live within the gated community of Christmas Lake Village. More than 900 residents live on streets with names like Tinsel, Poinsettia, Evergreen, and Silver Bell. The sprawling development perches on 2,500 acres that wind around Christmas Lake, Lake Holly, and Lake Noel.
While in the neighborhood, I learned the identity of another Santa’s elf named Kim Harmon. But when she answered the door, she introduced herself as Mrs. Claus and told me Harmon was busy. After a confusing couple of moments, I took off my shoes and was warmly welcomed into her Christmas-themed home.
Kim Harmon is a Christmas elf transplanted from Illinois who celebrates Christmas in her home year around. She also reads and responds to letters children write to Santa that are delivered to the Santa Claus post office. Photo by Steffy McCourt
Harmon retired to Santa Claus from northern Illinois shortly after losing her daughter. She wanted to live somewhere where it felt like Christmas all year long. Her home is filled corner to corner with Christmas decorations. She said that she doesn’t go overboard on outdoor decorations, and she wishes that more of her neighbors would ask to tour the inside of her home. Harmon is proud of her home since it represents the magic she was seeking when she moved here.
Where Elves Shop
The elves were so busy answering letters, rumor has it that they were very relieved when Heidi Schmidt saw an episode of House Hunters that took place in Christmas Lake Village 10 years ago.
Toys are never out of season at Santa’s Toys.
Schmidt had already been tossing around the idea of opening up a toy shop in Pennsylvania where her and her family lived at the time, but upon seeing that show, she became obsessed. After doing a bit of research she realized that Santa Claus didn’t have a toy shop, and she couldn’t imagine a better place to open one. So, she sold her house, packed up her family, and moved to Indiana where Santa Claus Toy Shop opened in 2016.
“We love it here,” Schmidt sighs contentedly. ”Small, little community. Everybody knows everybody. It feels magical,” she beams. “I always liken it to “Mr. Roger’s Neighborhood” because everybody really knows everybody.”
Schmidt has remodeled the commercial space her shop occupies into a winter wonderland. Peek through one of the windows purposely placed at the height of a child and you will get a sneak peek into Santa’s workshop where all the toys are made. Up at the front counter, younger customers can play with an assortment of toys before their parents purchase them.
Heidi Schmidt stands in front of the window looking into Santa’s Toy Shop. Photo by Steffy McCourt
A Visit with Santa
If the toy shop inspires a wish list, you may want to visit Santa over at the Santa Claus Christmas Store. It’s within walking distance. Once inside, just follow your nose to the back of the store— there are always chocolate chip cookies baking— and you are certain to find the jolly old fellow.
Santa arrives in July and stays through December. And yes, he wears his full red velvet suit, even when it’s 90°. “I think that when you come to see Santa, you should see him in his full get-up,” Santa explained.
The store, he assured me, has air conditioning, and he has a special fan stationed near him during the summer months. “Summer is the perfect time to get a frozen hot chocolate at the Candy Castle,” he advises.
Santa admits he doesn’t have a winter and a summer outfit. He has just one suit. “This is what you get,” he chuckled while brushing his hands over his red jacket.
Gloves off, Santa checks his list on his iPhone in between visitors. Santa’s favorite summer beverage, Frozen Hot Chocolate, can be purchased at Santa’s Candy Castle. Photo by Steffy McCourt
Santa shared that he loves working at the Christmas Store, because of the children. “I see kids from all over the world!” he laughed. “I’ve had ‘em from Germany. I’ve had ‘em from France. I’ve had ‘em from Japan. I’ve had ‘em from Romania. Even Argentina! And it’s just crazy that this small little town attracts children from all over the world,” he said.
A mother and her daughter stroll through one of the town’s Christmas store, enjoying the holiday vibe.
The Spirit of Christmas
Before I had to leave Santa Claus, Koch asked me, “If we could all have the spirit of Christmas all year long, wouldn’t that be great?”
The people of Santa Claus are proving, every single day throughout the year, that yes, it is indeed a very great feeling. 
Steffy McCourt is a Michigan-based travel writer and middle school English teacher who spends her days chasing stories across small towns and Great Lakes shorelines. Her work blends family travel and classroom insight, appearing in national and regional publications. This is her first story for the East-West News Service.